Monday, July 30, 2007

Liberty Bell - Barber Pole Route, Concord Tower, and Goat Wall - Prime Rib (of Goat)

Michelle and I took another foray into the mountains again last weekend. After climbing the North Face of Baring a couple weeks ago and badly cutting my finger with a knife, I hadn't been out much and figured some moderate climbing would do us both some good. We joined our good friends Chad and Deb from Seattle and met at Washington Pass. Our first objective was a cool looking route on Liberty Bell - the Barber Pole. It roughly follows the line below up the the mountains northeast face.



We had a leisurely start and bushwacked to the base, then climbed several hundred feet of exposed scrambling up what is called "The Bong" to get to real climbing.

Michelle on The Bong




The first part of a route was a very cool ramp system that led up and left, quickly gaining much exposure over the east face. We led out and Chad and Deb came up behind.

Michelle and Chad on the ramp


We simul-climbed several pitches until we came around a corner and onto "M and M ledge". I had slept on this small slopey sandy ledge in the rain nearly 10 years ago while climbing Thin Red Line - a route that comes directly up the east face. It looked much different now. Above we cruised up very nice granite for several pitches.

Michelle following, Chad leading behind


Nearing the top


We topped out in the early afternoon on a perfect Cascade day.

Summit shot and views






The route overall was very classic and highly recommended. There wasn't a bad pitch and it offered good and varied climbing, exposure, and a cool natural line. After rapping off the other side of the mountain, we decided to make a quick jaunt up Concord Tower which is directly across from Liberty Bell. An easy but fun 2 pitches lead to the small summit.

Michelle climbing up the final bit


On the summit


Our friends Tom and Katie were climbing the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell at the same time


After a fun night of barbecued salmon and lots of wine, we got an even later start for Goat Wall. This is an awesome wall located near the town of Mazama. I had climbed Sisyphus and Restless Native up the main wall last year so wanted to try out another route. Prime Rib climbs an arete on the left side of the wall and is a moderate semi-alpine sport climb of 11 pitches (5.9). Michelle and Deb both led the entire route for us guys. Great job girls!

Prime Rib (of Goat) very roughly follows this line


Here's a picture of the main wall, with Restless Native and the upper part of Sisyphus


The route is pretty straight forward - very well bolted, with fun clean rock.

Michelle leading the 2nd pitch


Deb leading the 2nd pitch


It was a pretty hot day but the wind kept it cool.

Michelle somewhere around the pitch 5.


Deb belaying


More bolts...


The route had tons of ledges and a several scrambling sections but it often had some good exposure

Deb leading a pitch


Michelle leading the 8th pitch


Michelle leading the final 5.9 crux


Silverstar and the wine spires from the top of the route


We made about 12 rappels down to the base. On the hike out, this little guy greeted us on the trail



All in all a great weekend!

P.S. Michelle said there were not enough pictures of me, so here I am (the one taking the picture)...

Sunday, July 8, 2007

North Ingalls Peak - South Ridge

We've both been out climbing a lot, but this was our first trip out into the Cascades together this year. We were looking for a leisurely day and neither of us had climbed Ingalls Peak - a peak that is just in our back yard. We left Leavenworth in the morning, drove to the trailhead, and hiked easily to the base. A little snow cover made getting to the base of the route enjoyable.

Michelle on the approach. The north peak of Ingalls is the spiny peak right over her head.


The route takes the left skyline.


Michelle led the entire climb, which we did in two pitches of low 5th class climbing plus a bit of scrambling.

Michelle leading the first pitch.


Michelle leading the super-steep 2nd pitch. (It's not really that steep)


We cruised past another party of 4 and quickly made the summit.


Summit views.




Mt. Stuart.


We made 3 rappels with one rope and some downclimbing to get back to the base. Then we made the nice sunny hike out.