Monday, August 10, 2009

Vesper Peak - North Ridge and Green Giant Buttress

This last weekend we decided to leave beautiful sunny EWA and venture to the solar-challenged side of the mountains. Michelle has always wanted to climb Green Giant Buttress near Darrington so we thought we'd combine it with a little alpine experience on Vesper Peak, taking advantage of the little climbing mecca along the Mountain Loop Highway.

We got a late start and headed up into the fog for Vesper Peak. It was misting a little and we were beginning to wonder if we would see anything the entire day.


We got a few breaks and then our hopes went up!


The approach seemed longer than it was, quite a bit of elevation gain with lots of switchbacks, then up to a beautiful basin between Vesper and Sperry.


Sperry Peak:


Another peak pokes its head out of the mist:


Finally we hiked to a col and the clouds cleared to show our route on the north face. From the col we had to descend several hundred feet of loose rock to a small glacier, then crossed the glacier directly to the face. We climbed the lower wall, up the big slab, then up right around the summit block.


Michelle loves moat crossings:


Luckily this one wasn't too bad comparatively. Looking back down while leading the first pitch:


Climbing up a gully on the lower wall:


We dispatched the gully in 3 pitches which led to the infamous slab:


It was really steep!!!

Well, not really that steep:

Well, actually more like this:


It was fun anyways and Michelle took over for the money pitch up the final dihedral:


The fog rolled in and it got desperate.


And the climbing got really steep again!


Well, not really:


Anyways, it was a very pleasant outing on a mini-alpine classic.

Michelle groping the summit:


The descent went quick as we ran back to the car. Another requisite Joe shot:


The next day we went for the Green Giant Buttress, a beautiful sweep of granite near Darrington. I had climbed it once before on a route called Dreamer, so this time we decided on a route called Safe Sex.


The approach took over 2 hours up an old overgrown logging road and then up 1,000-feet of gullies and slabs. We finally got on the rock and started the smear-fest.


The friction is awesome making the 4 bolts per 165-feet tolerable.


Michelle showing how its done:


As we got higher the cloudy weather parted and gave way to a beautiful day. We had the entire place to ourselves.


Getting higher:




On top of the buttress:


Chalk up another one!


The rappels went really smooth and we were back on the ground in no time.


A final look at the goodness:


We cruised back to the car, finishing another grand two days in the mountians.

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